Well, after much thought I have decided to change the name of my cutom knife company from Centerfinger Custom Knives to Woodbite Knives.

I have been posting on knife and survival related forums under the name of centerfinger for a few years now and that is how most people know me, but  since I had a successful first year of making custom knives that I should come up with a name a little more customer friendly.

nullThe name debate has been on going with friends and family for almost 2 months now and it has not been an easy decision, it still may not be set in stone.

I like to incorporate graphics when I think about a name because of the branding factor.   Before I came up with the artwork for Woodbite knives, I was playing around with the name Javelina Knife Company and came up with this logo.
I really, really liked this logo concept and thought it would be excellent to use for printed materials, but it lacked a key thing, it would not be very good for a small stencil to be etched onto knives.

A few other names crossed my mind and I did come up with some artwork to accompany them, but once I started working on the Woodbite logo, things just started to click. I did have to tweak the color scheme in order to work with this website and vice versa.  Again, this name may not be set in stone but once I get the site up and running and flowing how I want it, I will get some more feedback from some of my fellow knife makers.

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I have been working with John McCann from Survival Resources on a new logo for his website and printed materials.  I met John at Dirttime 2009 and had a blast speaking with him and his lovely wife Denise.  John carries a wide variety of survival goodies and gizmos and I highly recommend ordering from him.

Anyways here is a test of the logo we have been working with.

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Alright, I finally took some pics of my current mess kit / PSK.  I’ll call it my PSK after I pick up a new molle compatible canteen case.

Anyways, this is really more about my mess kit than anything else.  I have messed around with alcohol stoves for years now and always had issues.  I have come up with a few great designs out of aluminum budwieser bottles, that have also been thought up by other people and are for sale on ebay.  I got my stove concept from Tinny at mini bull designs and found something that I like and that works.  My cup is a battlefield tested US issue canteen cup.  That thing rocks and will hold up for ever.  I have played around with beer can (Heineken) pots and other various pots, but I always fall back on the good ole canteen cup.

Now I’d like to state that I’m not an uber ultra lighter and a little weight for performance is fine with me, nor am I a jetboil kinda guy.  My stove is simple and its light and it works.

Ok lets get going with some pics.

This my current carry all, like I said I’m looking for a new molle canteen holder with a couple of pockets and I should be able to fit everything in that.

Whats inside:  A ripstop poncho, which I dub my temporary shelter.  Some coordage to make my shelter.  Some alcohol and my mess kit.  I have other things to add like my freak’n fork, but I forgot about it.

A little peak at whats inside my pot/cup.

Like I said this bad boy is a true multi fuel set up.  I gots some esbit, trioxaine, my alchy stove, a cheap flashlight (will be replaced with my surefire), but it fits, my altoids PSK, some tubing and a piece of arrow shaft.

You can also see my windscreen/ wood burning stove inside the cup and I shot a pic of inside the altoids tin, but there is way too much shit in there to list it all out.

This is a pic of my basic pot stand (old aluminum cateen reconfigured CF style).  I use the bit of arrow and tube when I’m using wood.  I blow air thru the base to heat the bitch up like a forge.

And here we come to my alchy stove.  I made this out of 2 travel size “axe” spray containers.  Mashed 2 halves together and stuck 4 pieces of tiki torch wick in there.  This is simple, cheap and it works.  Of course I’m too cool for axe so I sanded off all the coating.

OK got 2 cups of water in the cup, got my lid ready.  The cool thing with the axe spray is that the cap holds exactly 3/4 ounces of alcohol, so I use that as my measuring cup, brilliant if I do say so myself.  Oh the lid is a new product and works pretty good, I’ll do a full review on it later when I have time, but its made my Heavycover.  It’s rubber so don’t let the flames creep up on it.  I wouldn’t use it if I was using wood, but the for the alchy stove it works good.

To avoid spillage, I put the stove upside down in the lid to soak up some fuel and then poor the rest of the fuel in.

Ok were off and running.

A little dark action.

With the heavycover, I was able to get a rolling boiling inbetween 7.5-8.5 minutes, which is not too bad.  I did use cold tap water, but I’m not scientific enough to actually take temps and shit.

With 3/4 ounces of alcohol this stove will burn for over 13 minutes, but losses strength around 10 1/2 minutes.  anyways should burn long enough to get cold creek water boiling.

Hope you enjoyed my post.  I’m always refining, but this is my go to set up and will be until I come up with something different.


Since I have posting images of my little tool around the knife forums, I have gotten a great response.  I have been in contact with some local water jet companies to have a larger batch of these tools profiled for me.

I figured I could post up the drawings of the revised tool, so here you go.  The actual size image, the specifications are hard to read, so I have made another picture a bit bigger so that the specs are easier to read.

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I have been working on a tool for my small survival kit and now think I’m heading in the right direction.  I’m a big fan of using ferro rods / firesteel for spark based fire starting and have wondered why the little thin scraping tool that they come with isn’t capable of more things.
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Again the primary use for this tool is to scrape ferro rods, but I have incorporated a few other features that makes have multiple uses.

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Overall this tool is 3 inches in overall length and has a 1 1/8″ cutting edge.  It is a bit thick being 1/8″ and I may move to  a thinner steel on the next one.  The finger groves fit comfortably on your index and middle fingers.  The top of the tool is notched and is where you would use it to scrape your firesteel.  It’s actually notched all the way around the tool to assist with gripping as well as adding strength if you were to attach it to a shaft in order to create a make shift spear or arrow.  I have drilled some holes through the handle which accomplishes a couple of things, it reduces weight and allows for a corp wrapped handle.  I don’t show the cord wrapping, but I was able to get 8′ of 250 test pound single inner strand cordage, similar to paracord just smaller.

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Using the tool I was easily able to scrape some fat wood to use as a base for my fire sparking test.  I also found some good thin bark which helped to catch the spark and get my fire going.  A couple of scrapes with the ferro rod and viola.survivaltool6

First thing was first fire.  I also wanted to test the small cutting edge and see what I could get done with a little tiny blade.  I cut a small limb of oak and tried to do some bark scraping and notching.  I was able to do some basics and made a tent stake without to much trouble.  Granted it wasn’t the greatest tool for the job, but it did work and notching was one of my personal requirements.  I wanted to at least be able to make small traps with the tool.survivaltool7

Other than trap notching I wanted to be able to skin small critters and switching your grip on the tool and resting the finger notches on your middle and ring fingers I was able to extend my index finger along the very top ridge to create a comfortable grip for skinning.  Now I did run into any critters to test this out on, I’m positive it can be done.  I did though catch a few trout and it was like a hot knife through butter gutting the fish.  No problems there.

As a last ditch weapon the tool can be attached to a stick to create a make-shift spear or arrow.  I don’t really recommend this and would probably opt to just make a point stick and not potentially lose my little tool, but it can be done.  survivaltool2This is one of the areas that will be changed with the next prototype.  On this model the butt of the tool is rounded and it should be squared off more.  It had no issues when I threw the spear or jabbed it modestly into a tree, but when I really gave it my all and used a lot of force the rounded butt slipped out of the side of the spear.survivaltool1

All in all it was a pretty successful testing demo of the capabilities of the tool and I am happy with the direction it is heading.  A few more changes and I think this will be the best firesteel / PSK tool that I will make.
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Well, I took these pictures last month and figured I could write up a quick post about it.  My family and I were out at one of our favorite spots called seven springs.  It’s a unique place with a nice stream in the middle of the desert within Tonto National Forest.  There are some nice hiking trails in the vecinity as well as bbq grills.  It makes a great spot for an afternoon picnic.

I gathered up some wood to make a fire for grilling up some burgers.  I have a preferred way of fire starting and that is flint and steel.

flint and steel fire starting

Above is a picture of my wood pile and my main camp knive made by Stephan Fowler.  The thing is a beast and easliy split up my wood to get some nice kindling.  I cut up the log with a folding saw, which is a must have when preparring to make a fire during outtings.

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The image above is my fire kit.  It contains:  Flint, steel, jute twine and charcloth.  I carry everything in a deer sack ball bag, it makes a great kit and looks mountain man authentic.

flint and steel fire starting

These pictures are my handsome self catching a spark with the flint and steel and blowing it into flames with a tinder bundle of jute twine.

flint and steel fire starting

Once you catch your spark onto the charcloth and get your charcloth coaling up good, you simple place the coal into the tinder ball of jute twine and blow it into flames.  It’s really easy and very fun to practice.  It is my favorite way to start a fire and is still very relevant and practical in todays world.

flint and steel fire starting

Boom that is some fire right there.  Drop the flaming tinder bundle into your prepared kindling pile and get the fire going strong.

cooking a burger on a rock

What to use to cook my burger, well a rock of course.  I found a nice flat rock, cleaned it off and tossed it in the coals to gather some heat.  The fat from the burger kept it from sticking and it turned out very, very good.  I thoroughly enjoyed it and it was cooked perfectly.

MMMMM, yummy.  A few fixins and you are good to go.  The wife and kids wouldn’t have their burgers cooked in this fashion and opted for the skillet.  One of the lessons I was trying to pass onto them was:  If you don’t have a cooking vessel, what do you do?  Maybe they learned something.
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I put a picture of these little guys on bladeforums and got a really good response.  I ended up taking an order for three of them.  It took about a week to finish up the 3, but I made a total of 7 of them.  These are 1095 high carbon steel and have a paracord wrap handle and a kydex sheath.  Overall the length of them is 4 1/2 inches and the blade length varies.  These are a nice little blades that will fit in the smallest of survival kits or a lightweight neck knife.Micro neck knife

The kydex sheath is tight fitting and will endure the heaviest of activities and since its so light weight you will not even notice you have it around your neck.  The knife pictured is a little bit different then the batch of seven that I made.  The main difference is this one has a large cavity cut out of the handle where the other seven have five holes drilled in the tang.  Drilling the holes was a lot less time consuming that hollowing out the center and was a real time saver.

Micro neck knife

I just finished this blade up and plan on using and abusing it for testing purposes.  It’s made from 1095 high carbon steel and has about a 3 1/4″ blade.  I used Tan micarta for the handle material and though it comes out really nice, it’s a pain to work with.  Lots of dust everyware.  It is a very durable material and is used a lot for knife handles.  Overall the knife is about  7 1/2 long with a blade width of 15/16ths of an inch.  It is 1/8″ thick and has brass hardware for the pins and the lanyard tube.

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The sheath is a pouch style that is set up for either horizontal or vertical carry.

bushcraft knife

Conturing  the handle for added maximum grippyness makes it feels really good in the hand, almost an extension of your arm.  I can’t wait to put it to use and cut up some wood and perform some bushcraft.  The reason I have not put this one for sale is because I ground the edge a bit thin and didn’t feel that it had a strong enough edge that may cause problems down the road.

bushcraft knife

Well, the time finally came for me to start making my own knives as I have bought, sold and traded numerous knives. I have a particular appreciation for outdoorsy, hiking, camping and fishing type cutlery and took the plunge to make my own brand. Thus far I have made 4 knives and sold my first one on 1/6/2009 to Andy of Andysleatherhouse.com using my favorite forum the Jerzeedevil.

I called this model the ergo hiker, it’s lightweight and has a decent blade lengths to handle most aspects of outdoor use. I made this one using the stock removal method (taking away material from a flat bar of steel), rather than forging it from round or square stock. It was made from 1095 (high carbon steel) purchased from Jantz supply.

ergo hikerI started out with a hand drawn image and traced it onto the steel. Using a dremel tool with a metal disk cutter I cut out shape as close as I could and then finished up the profile on a bench grinder. Once the blade took shape, I drilled out my holes in the handles for the ¼ inch brass tubing and ground the bevels on my crappy 1×30 grinder (belt sander in non knife terms). After removing enough material to start to look like a knife, I cleaned up the bevels by hand with files and sanded everything by hand up to 220 grit, I also added in the thumb groove to improve on the grip. It was time for heat treating the blade. I use a two brick forge and a welding torch to bring the metal past a non magnetic state and then quench it into warm vegetable oil. After the quench the blade heads into my toaster oven for the tempering process, which is 2 one hour, fifteen minute cycles at 425 degrees. Once the temper is finished its back to the grinder to clean off the scale and then back to hand sanding to try and get a nice finish. I used curly maple wood for the handle material which is adhered by 2 ton epoxy and then shaped on the grinder and finished by hand gradually going from 120 grit to 400 grit, until I felt the finish was suitable.

The overall Specs of the knife are:

1095 steel with a minor hardening line
Grind – flat
OAL – 7 3/8ths
Blade tip to slab – 3 3/8ths
Cutting edge – 3 1/16 th
Blade thickness – 1/8th
Blade width – 1 1/4
Weight – 4.1 oz
Weight with sheath – 5.2 oz
Curly maple slabs
Thumb grooves
1/4 brass tubes
light weight tooled leather (JerzeeDevil colors)

ergo hiker sheath

I made the leather sheath with lightweight leather and put a decent design into it. I stained it almost black and using red stitching to finish it off. Over all this turned out to be a nice piece and I was really happy with it. From start to finish I estimate that I spent a total of 11 hours on the project and from the price that I sold it for, I was really working for peanuts. My goal was to sell it for enough money to buy more materials to make and hopefully sell some more.

Thanks for looking

Rob

Most of my travels come about during my summer road trips. I have started a google map indicating some of the locations I have traveled. I do not have all of my locations pin pointed, but I will update them when I have excess time. Notes regarding some of the citys I have been are listed and some pictures will be attached as well. Please visit my map page HERE.